Mezcal Classifications Explained

Mezcal is made in more varied ways than tequila, reflecting local traditions across Mexico. The official rules group its production methods into three categories and the finished spirit into six classes.

These categories are Artesanal Mezcal, Ancestral Mezcal and simply Mezcal (although commonly known as “industrial” mezcal). The six classes are blanco/joven, matured in glass, reposado, añejo, flavored with (abocado con), and distilled with (destilado con).

Certified mezcal labels show both the category and class.

Why Some Agave Spirits Aren’t Labeled Mezcal

The terms “mezcal” or “mescal” have been used in Mexico for centuries for describing the distilled liquor made from baked agave piñas—the harvested hearts of the plants. In some parts of Mexico “mezcal” is also used for describing the agave itself.

Since 1994, mezcal has been protected by a denomination of origin. Its rules were largely based on tequila’s, with some changes.

Only spirits made by certified producers under the official rules can be sold as “mezcal”. Those rules are set out in NOM-070-SCFI-2016.

Mezcal which is not officially certified cannot use the term “mezcal” on the bottle, even if it is made using the same techniques. These spirits are known as “destilados de agave” or “liquor de agave”. Locally however, many people still use the term mezcal to refer to all agave spirits outside of tequila.

Official Categories and Classes of Mezcal

The category describes production up to distillation; the class describes what happens between distillation and bottling. Most mezcal belongs to the Artesanal category and the Blanco class.

Requirements to be Sold as Mezcal

To be sold as mezcal, the product must meet the following requirements:

• It must be made from 100% mature agave (any type of agave)
• The agave must be harvested from permitted locations
• The mezcal must be made in accordance with one of the three production categories
• The producer must be authorized, and must be located within permitted locations
• The alcohol strength must be between 35% and 55% ABV
• There are further restrictions on permitted levels of other elements (higher alcohols, methanol, furfural, aldehydes, lead and arsenic)
• The bottles must be labeled according to specific standards

The Three Official Mezcal Categories

The three production categories are Artesanal Mezcal, Ancestral Mezcal and Mezcal, often informally called “industrial mezcal”. Almost all mezcal produced is Artesanal.

Tequila’s regulations have no comparable production categories. Most tequila is produced using more industrialized methods.

Artesanal vs Ancestral vs “Industrial” Mezcal: Key Differences

Ancestral Mezcal has the most restrictive, labor-intensive production rules. These methods generally yield the least mezcal from a given amount of agave.

A tahona crushes cooked agave with a heavy stone or concrete wheel. An autoclave cooks under pressure. A diffuser extracts sugars from agave fibers using water. Continuous distillation feeds liquid into the equipment continuously rather than in separate batches.

Artesanal Mezcal Production Rules

Artesanal mezcal makes up more than 95% of production. Its rules cover four stages:

• Cooking: Agave piñas are cooked in an underground cooking pit or above ground stone basin
• Milling (crushing the agave): maul (or mallet), tahona (aka Chilean or Egyptian mills), millstone or shredder
• Fermentation vessels and cavities: stone, soil, tree trunks, animal skins, wood, or clay
• Distillation: using direct flame with stills made from copper or clay, and with coils made of clay, copper, wood or stainless steel

Ancestral Mezcal Production Rules

The Ancestral Mezcal category makes up less than half a percent of all certified mezcal.

• Cooking: Agave piñas are cooked in underground stone pits
• Milling (crushing the agave): maul (or mallet), tahona (aka Chilean or Egyptian mills)
• Fermentation vessels and cavities: stone, soil, tree trunks, animal skins, wood, or clay
• Distillation: using direct flame with stills made from clay, and with coils made of clay, or wood

Mezcal (Industrial Mezcal) Production Rules

Certified mezcal made outside the Artesanal or Ancestral production standards is labeled simply Mezcal, often informally called industrial mezcal. It accounts for less than 5% of certified production. Its rules cover the same four stages:

• Cooking: Agave piñas are cooked in an underground cooking pit or above ground stone basin or an autoclave
• Milling (crushing the agave): maul (or mallet), tahona, Chilean or Egyptian mill, millstone, shredder, roller mill, or diffuser
• Fermentation vessels and cavities: stone, wood, or stainless steel
• Distillation: any still, continuous distillation, or with coils made of copper or stainless steel

The Six Official Mezcal Classes

After production, mezcal falls into one of six classes. Most is Blanco. The classes are:

1. Blanco or Joven
2. Matured in Glass (Madurado en Vidrio)
3. Reposado
4. Añejo
5. Flavored with (Abocado con)
6. Distilled with (Destilado con)

Differences Between Classes of Mezcal

Blanco or Joven Mezcal

Mezcal labeled as Blanco or Joven has had no further processing following distillation except for usually adding water. It is clear and colorless. 98.78% of certified mezcal is Blanco according to COMERCAM.

Blanco and joven mean the same thing for mezcal. For tequila, joven signifies a blend of unaged and aged tequila.

Matured in Glass Mezcal (Madurado en Vidrio)

Mezcal stored in a glass container for more than 12 months. The storage area must be underground or in a space with limited variations of light, heat and humidity.

This is a very rare class of mezcal. This technique is sometimes used in the states of Michoacan and Guerrero and more recently in Oaxaca. Aging mezcal in this way changes the flavor and texture, resulting in a smoother, more rounded tasting mezcal.

Reposado Mezcal

Aged in wooden barrels of any size for between two and 12 months in a space with limited variations of light, heat and humidity.

While very common with tequila, aging mezcal is not so common. Some more commercial brands like Ilegal, 400 Conejos and Zignum offer aged expressions.

Añejo Mezcal

Aged in wooden barrels less than 1000 liters for more than 12 months in a space with limited variations of light, heat and humidity.

Mezcal Flavored with (Abocado con)

Abocado con is mezcal with ingredients added to the finished spirit. The best-known addition is the maguey worm; others include damiana, lime, honey, orange and mango.

Mezcal Distilled with (Destilado con)

Destilado con is mezcal distilled with other ingredients, commonly known as pechuga. Pechuga means “breast” and refers to a traditional celebratory mezcal that undergoes a third distillation with a turkey or chicken breast, fruits and spices.

Non-Certified Mezcal Production

A lot of mezcal produced in Mexico hasn’t been certified. Officially, these products cannot be sold as mezcal and should be labeled as “destilado de agave” or similar. Some producers choose not to get certified because of the added costs. Others are outside the Denominación de Origen and cannot be certified.

Unlike tequila, there are a huge number of mezcal producers making agave spirits without being certified. Some of the best mezcals I have tried were not certified. Real Minero is a common example of one of the highest quality agave spirit producers which does not make certified mezcal. This is despite them meeting all of the requirements for certification.

There are many more tiny producers for whom it just doesn’t make sense to certify given their low production volumes.

On the other hand certification is definitely no guarantee of quality. If nothing else though, it should be a guarantee that you won’t go blind from drinking it.